What is an Alpinist and How to Become One
If you love mountain climbing and want to challenge yourself with high, difficult ascents, you might be interested in becoming an alpinist. But what exactly is an alpinist and how do you become one?
What is an Alpinist?
An alpinist is a mountain climber who specializes in climbing medium-sized glaciated mountain areas, such as the Alps. Alpinists often climb routes that are technically demanding, exposed, and remote, using minimal equipment and support. Alpinists are different from other types of climbers, such as rock climbers or ice climbers, because they have to master a variety of skills and techniques, such as rock climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, snow climbing, navigation, survival, and self-rescue.
Who are some famous Alpinists?
Some of the most famous and accomplished alpinists in history include:
- Reinhold Messner: The first person to climb all 14 peaks over 8000 meters without supplemental oxygen, and the first to solo Everest. He also pioneered the concept of “alpine style” climbing, which emphasizes speed, lightness, and simplicity.
- Catherine Destivelle: The first woman to solo the north faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn, and Grandes Jorasses in winter. She also made many first ascents and free solos in the Alps and beyond.
- Ueli Steck: The “Swiss Machine” who set speed records on many of the world’s most iconic peaks, such as the Eiger north face, the Matterhorn north face, and Annapurna south face. He also climbed new routes on Shishapangma and Gasherbrum II.
- Marc-André Leclerc: A Canadian prodigy who soloed some of the hardest routes on Cerro Torre, Aguja Standhardt, and Torre Egger in Patagonia. He also made the first solo ascent of the Infinite Patience route on Mt. Robson’s Emperor Face. He died in 2018 in a climbing accident in Alaska.
How to Become an Alpinist?
Becoming an alpinist is not easy. It requires a lot of dedication, training, experience, and passion. Here are some steps you can take to become an alpinist:
- Learn the basics of mountain climbing: You need to have a solid foundation of skills and knowledge before you attempt alpine climbing. You should learn how to climb on rock, ice, snow, and mixed terrain; how to use ropes, anchors, belays, and protection; how to navigate with a map, compass, and GPS; how to deal with weather, altitude, and hazards; how to plan and prepare for a climb; how to perform first aid and self-rescue; and how to follow climbing ethics and safety rules.
- Gain experience on different mountains: You need to practice your skills and test your limits on various types of mountains. You should start with easier and lower peaks and gradually progress to harder and higher ones. You should also try different styles of climbing, such as trad climbing, sport climbing, aid climbing, free soloing, etc. You should climb with partners who are more experienced than you and learn from them. You should also join a mountaineering club or take a course from a reputable guide service or school.
- Choose your goals and train for them: You need to have a clear idea of what you want to achieve as an alpinist. You should research the mountains and routes that interest you and set realistic goals for yourself. You should also train physically and mentally for your objectives. You should develop your strength, endurance, flexibility, balance, agility, coordination, and mental toughness. You should also study the history, culture, geology, flora, fauna, and weather of the places you want to climb.
- Go for it: You